Daylila

Food & Farming · Sunday, 16 August 2026

01 · Briefing · what happened

Washington closes a 1958 food-additive loophole, and still cannot define ultra-processed

Food & Farming 7 min 24 sources

A 1958 rule let companies vouch for their own additives. The FDA moved to close it - and again skipped the harder question.

99%

of new food chemicals since 2000

entered via the self-certification route

13,000+

cyclospora cases confirmed

one of the largest US outbreaks on record

22%

drop in FDA staff

this year against 2024

51.9m

tonnes of EU maize forecast

lowest since 2007, and analysts see worse

At a glance

  • The FDA proposed making ingredient notification mandatory, closing a loophole open since 1958.
  • Until now companies could declare their own additives safe and start selling without telling anyone.
  • Nearly 99 percent of food chemicals added since 2000 came in through that loophole.
  • For the second time this year, Washington postponed defining what ultra-processed food actually is.
  • It arrived mid-crisis: cyclospora cases past 13,000, plus a highest-risk recall of 19 million eggs.
  • The FDA has 22 percent fewer staff than in 2024 while produce imports keep rising.
  • Separately, heat has hit Europe's maize crop hardest since the 1970s, and a record El Nino is building.

Forces in play

Pressure to act Building

a record outbreak and public anger over additives have pushed food rules up the agenda

Regulator capacity High

FDA staff down 22 percent since 2024 and foreign inspections down 13 percent, while imports grow

Industry self-certification Steady

companies still write their own safety science; the new rule adds paperwork, not an independent review

Weather on the harvest High

French maize may halve to its smallest since 1976 and England faces its worst cereal harvest on record

Price pressure at the till Easing

US grocery prices actually fell in July and UK food inflation hit a near two-year low of 1.7 percent

In play The FDA — proposed the rule, and is running the outbreak response with 22 percent fewer staff Robert F Kennedy Jr — promised an ultra-processed definition by April; it is still with the budget office Taylor Farms — seven-billion-dollar supplier at the centre of both the lettuce and jalapeno outbreaks European maize growers — facing the smallest EU crop in decades after a scorching summer Senate Agriculture Committee — deadlocked on the Farm Bill, now three years overdue

How it unfolded

  1. 1958 Congress writes a safe-ingredient exemption meant for things like salt and paprika
  2. April the promised ultra-processed definition slips; officials say it is really hard
  3. Mon 10 Aug the FDA proposes mandatory notification for all new ingredients
  4. Wed 12 Aug the egg recall is raised to Class I, the highest risk grade
  5. Fri 14 Aug analysts warn French maize could halve to its smallest crop since 1976

Where this points

The rule now goes to public comment, so watch whether the final version adds an independent review before an ingredient reaches shelves - without one, the paperwork changes and the incentive does not.

Full briefing

The US Food and Drug Administration proposed a rule on Monday that would force food companies to tell it about every new ingredient they put on the market [1]. It closes a gap that has been open since 1958. It also, once again, dodges the thing the administration promised: a definition of “ultra-processed food” [1].

What the rule does

The gap is called GRAS, short for Generally Recognized As Safe. Since 1958 a company has been able to decide for itself that an ingredient is safe and start selling it, without telling the government or showing anyone its evidence [2]. The exemption was written for things like salt and paprika. It became the main road into the American food supply: by one Environmental Working Group study, nearly 99 percent of food chemicals introduced since 2000 arrived this way [2].

“If finalized, this rule would formally transition the GRAS framework from a voluntary program to a mandatory notification system,” acting FDA commissioner Kyle Diamantas said [1]. It would cover ingredients already on shelves as well as new ones [1].

Consumer groups called it a start and not much more. There is still no independent safety review before an ingredient reaches a shelf, and no plan for re-examining the substances already in the food supply [2]. Marion Nestle, professor emerita of nutrition at New York University, was blunter: “You have to be kidding. That’s all?” [1]. Her structural objection is that the company still writes the science. “The company is still responsible for the science and will still be hiring its own experts to say the additive is safe,” she said [1].

Lawyers are not certain the agency can even do this. A 2021 court ruling said the FDA could run a voluntary system; a mandatory one is a different question [1].

The definition that keeps slipping

Robert F Kennedy Jr, the health secretary, promised a federal definition of ultra-processed food “by April” [1]. In April, Diamantas said a definition “is really hard” [1]. A proposed one went to the White House budget office for final review last week, with no publication date [2].

The delay is not only politics. There is no scientific consensus on what counts as ultra-processed, and it has been hard to establish which health effects follow from processing itself [1]. Britain has the same hole. Its Food Standards Agency last published consumer guidance on ultra-processed foods in February 2025. A letter in the Guardian this week argued the agency should update it and say whether government action is needed [8].

The outbreak underneath it all

The rule landed in the middle of one of the largest foodborne illness episodes in US history. Confirmed cyclospora cases, traced to iceberg lettuce, have passed 13,000 [3]. Reuters reported two deaths from that outbreak, which was tracked back to lettuce Taylor Farms imported from Mexico [5].

A separate salmonella outbreak forced Taylor Farms, a seven-billion-dollar supplier, to recall its jalapeno products [7][5]. Affected items were sold in 26 states [3]. And on 12 August the FDA raised an egg recall to Class I, its highest risk grade, meaning the product could cause “serious adverse health consequences or death” [3]. Midwest Poultry Services had pulled roughly 19 million eggs from Texas farms in July [4]. At least 98 people in 17 states have been sickened and 26 hospitalised; no deaths [3][4].

The FDA says the lettuce is off the market and told Americans to keep eating salad [6]. Its own investigation is still open [6]. Reuters set that against the agency’s capacity. FDA employment is down 22 percent this year against 2024, and foreign food-facility inspections fell nearly 13 percent in fiscal 2025 [5]. The US imported 16.1 billion dollars of fresh produce from Mexico in 2025 alone [5].

Europe’s harvest is the week’s other story

Heat and drought have wrecked the European maize crop. The European Commission has already cut its 2026/27 forecast to 51.9 million tonnes, the lowest since 2007. Some analysts now expect under 50 million for the first time since the 1990s [9]. France’s agriculture ministry sees its own maize crop down 35 percent to 9 million tonnes. Two analyst firms think it will roughly halve, to under 7 million - the smallest French harvest since 1976 [9]. “Agronomically speaking, the situation in the EU is very bad,” said Expana’s Gabriel Antonio [9].

Austria, a water-rich country, expects a grain harvest 19 percent smaller and is seeing emergency slaughter as Alpine pastures dry out and cattle come down early [10]. In England, nearly three-quarters of the country is in drought after a fifth heatwave [11]. Grass growth is about half what it should be and milk production is down about 1 percent. The cereal harvest may be the worst since detailed records began [11]. It arrived early too - the earliest UK cereal harvest in at least 20 years [12].

The damage shows up in the food itself. Cauliflowers are coming out yellow instead of white, cucumbers misshapen, broccoli undersized, and Britain is importing more vegetables than usual to fill the gap [12]. Prime Minister Andy Burnham announced 65 million pounds for drought-hit farmers, most of it added to the sustainable farming incentive [13]. Another 15 million pounds goes towards on-farm reservoirs - money campaigners note was reallocated from existing budgets [13]. In the US, orchard growers lost apple, peach and plum crops to spring freezes that hit trees which had bloomed three weeks early [24].

What is loading next

El Nino, the Pacific warming that reshuffles weather worldwide, is running early and looks set to be the strongest in nearly 80 years of records [14]. Panama has had no major storm since early May and Ethiopia’s highlands are in one of their driest summer stretches in four decades [14]. India had its fifth-driest June since records began in 1901 [14]. Whether human warming is making these events stronger is still debated among scientists [14].

For Latin America it cuts both ways. More rain usually helps crops in Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay and southern Brazil - but the Panama Canal is already cutting how deep ships can sit, which squeezes cargo [15].

The Black Sea is the other pressure. Ukraine supplies half the world’s sunflower oil, 16 percent of traded corn and 12 percent of traded wheat [16]. Russian forces have struck at least 50 Ukrainian cargo ships since June, killing more than 30 civilians, and commercial shipping has largely stopped [16]. Ukraine expects a 60-million-tonne harvest but only 38 to 40 million tonnes of exports, a 12 percent cut to earlier forecasts [16].

Prices, plants and policy

None of it has reached the till yet. US consumer prices rose 3.4 percent in the year to July, and grocery prices actually fell - lettuce alone dropped more than 16 percent as shoppers avoided it [17]. UK food inflation slowed to 1.7 percent in June, a near two-year low, against February warnings of 10 percent by Christmas [18]. Supermarket price wars, shopper resistance and suppliers locking in costs early absorbed the shock [18].

American corn looks fine. USDA’s 12 August report put Iowa on 216 bushels an acre, up from 210 [20]. Beef does not: Tyson will close beef plants in Illinois and Utah and sell one in Washington, as a 75-year low in cattle supply keeps squeezing processors [19].

In Congress, the 2026 Farm Bill failed to clear the Senate Agriculture Committee, deadlocked over shifting food-aid costs to states [21]. That shift has already cost more than 4 million people access to food aid [21]. A full reauthorisation is now three years overdue [21]. One bipartisan amendment did pass: mandatory country-of-origin labelling on meat [21].

And the machinery upstream keeps narrowing. USDA figures show two companies control more than 70 percent of US corn and soybean seed sales, and the top four cottonseed firms nearly 94 percent [22]. In May the Justice Department told a court that seed patents are obstructing competition and research [22].

Furthest from the headlines, in Somalia, funding for acute malnutrition has fallen more than 80 percent this year. One in four children screened in south-western displacement camps is severely malnourished, and donor money has dropped to roughly 300 million dollars from 2.2 billion in 2022 [23].

02 · Lesson · why it matters

Why nobody can define good food

Yield and nourishment are two different numbers, and we only ever built the machinery to count one of them.

How it works

  1. A crop is graded and paid for by weight
  2. So breeding and fertiliser push mass hard
  3. The plant draws more minerals, but far more slowly than it gains bulk
  4. Same nutrients, spread through more food
  5. Per kilo, nourishment drifts down while tonnes climb
  6. Nothing on the grading sheet ever notices

The twist

How much food there is and how much good it does are two different numbers, and we only ever built the machinery to count the first one.

Where you've seen this

Exam results

schools are measured on scores, so scores rise faster than the learning underneath

Hospital waiting lists

counting how fast patients are seen tells you nothing about whether they got better

Timber

fast-grown trees hit height targets years early and give softer, weaker wood

The catch

The size of the historical decline in specific crops is genuinely disputed - old and new varieties were measured in different soils, in different years, by different methods.

Full lesson

The question the rule does not ask

A senior official at America’s food regulator said, in public, that defining ultra-processed food “is really hard.”

He was not dodging. It is hard, and for a stranger reason than the politics around it.

The new rule asks a question the system already knows how to answer: is this ingredient safe? That question has a method. You take a substance, you test it, you look for harm.

The question nobody can answer is the other one. Does this food nourish a person? There is no agreed measure. No test, no threshold, no number on any form. So a rule about food ends up being a rule about paperwork on chemicals, because that is the part we know how to weigh.

The same hole runs back to the field

Follow that gap upstream and you reach the farm, where the miss is a century old.

A crop is graded and paid for by weight. Tonnes per hectare, bushels per acre, moisture, test weight. Those numbers decide what a farmer earns and therefore what a breeder breeds for. Minerals per gram appear on no grading sheet anywhere in the chain.

So for a hundred years, plant breeding pushed hard on the thing that was measured. It worked, spectacularly. Yields on the major grains rose several times over and fed billions of people who would otherwise not have eaten. That is not a small thing and it should not be waved away.

But a second number was moving the whole time, and nothing was watching it.

Dilution, not disappearance

The mechanism is simple enough to hold in your head.

A plant pulls minerals out of the soil. Zinc, iron, magnesium. How much it can pull is limited by what is in the soil and how well the roots reach it. Breeding and fertiliser are very good at making the plant build more bulk - more starch, more water, more grain. They are much less good at making it pull proportionally more mineral.

So the same quantity of mineral ends up spread through more food. The grain is not poisoned and nothing has vanished. It is diluted. A kilo of it carries less than a kilo used to.

Rising carbon dioxide appears to push in the same direction. In controlled experiments, plants grown in air with more of it build more carbohydrate and end up with lower mineral concentrations. How much that matters in a real field, with real weather and real soil, is still argued over.

The visible version of this showed up in England this summer. Drought produced undersized broccoli and yellow cauliflowers - food that looks wrong. The dilution version looks completely normal. That is the whole problem with it.

What is settled and what is not

This is a field with real disagreement, and it is worth being precise about where the line falls.

Settled: hidden hunger is real, measured, and widespread. Millions of people eat enough calories and are still short of iron, zinc or vitamin A. Settled: fortification works. Iodised salt and folic acid in flour are among the cheapest public health wins ever recorded.

Not settled: the size of the historical decline in any particular crop. Those studies compare old varieties to new ones, but they were grown in different soils, in different years, and measured with different laboratory methods. Careful people have criticised them on exactly those grounds. Not settled either: how big the carbon dioxide effect will be outside a chamber.

What is not in dispute is the shape of the thing. Yield and density are separate quantities, and only one of them was ever on the sheet.

Why growing more does not fix it

This is the part that catches people out.

If the shortfall is per gram, then producing more grams does not close it. A person eats a certain number of meals. If each one carries less, more tonnes in a silo somewhere does not reach them. That is precisely why fortification and biofortification exist as separate efforts, run by separate people, funded separately from anything to do with raising yields. They are the patch for a gap that abundance does not fill.

The arrangement underneath all this is a grading sheet - a rule about what gets counted and paid for. It looks like plain fact. It is a choice somebody made, and it has narrowed since: two companies now control more than 70 percent of American corn and soybean seed. The people writing the priorities are fewer than they were.

The measure nobody took

Nobody set out to grow emptier food. They set out to grow more of it, honestly, using the only number they had, and it worked well enough to end famines that had run for centuries.

The cost sat in a column that did not exist. It reached everyone who eats - the shopper picking up a bag of flour, the child in a camp screened for malnutrition, the person reading this. None of us chose it. None of us can see it from where we stand either, because the sheet in front of every one of us still has only the one number on it.

Which raises the harder thought. Not what is wrong with the numbers we keep. What is moving right now in the column nobody thought to add.

03 · Lab · your turn

Breed the Crop

Spend five seasons of breeding effort and watch tonnes and nourishment-per-kilo move apart.

04 · Hope · carry this

Nothing here was hidden, only uncounted - and a column can always be added. We put iodine in salt and folic acid in flour once we thought to look.

Across the beats