Day Lila

Food & Farming · Sunday, 11 October 2026

01 Briefing what happened

Alaska's pollock trawlers catch about 300,000 salmon a year while Yukon villages may not fish for Chinook, and trawling becomes an election fight

Food & Farming 18 sources

Boats catching the fish for fish sticks also net hundreds of thousands of salmon a year, as western Alaska's salmon runs collapse and river villages give up fishing. Scientists blame warmer water most, but the trawl nets are what voters can change.

306,000

salmon a year caught in Bering Sea pollock nets

18,000 Chinook and 288,000 others, a ten-year average [1]

45,000

western Alaska chum the trawlers could catch under a recommended cap

recommended in February after more than 170 people spoke; critics say it is too high [1]

96m lb

of unwanted catch thrown back by Alaska's trawlers in 2025

about 44,000 tonnes, by the council's own count [1]

$432m

the value of more than 3 billion pounds of Alaska pollock landed in 2024

many of the largest boats are owned by companies near Seattle, outside Alaska [1]

The lead story — what happened

  • Alaska pollock is the second-largest fishery on Earth, and in the US it goes into McDonald's Filet-O-Fish, fish sticks and imitation crab. [1]
  • The nets catch other sea life too. Over the last ten years, pollock trawlers in the Bering Sea, between Alaska and Russia, caught about 18,000 Chinook and 288,000 other salmon a year, nearly all of them chum. [1][2]
  • Salmon runs in western Alaska have collapsed. In 2024 Alaska and Canada banned Chinook fishing on the Yukon River for seven years, one full salmon life cycle. [1]
  • In Rampart, a Native village on the Yukon with no grocery store, families who once filled smokehouses with salmon left their boats tied up this summer. [1]
  • Scientists say warmer water and changing ocean conditions, not trawl nets, are the main cause of the decline. [1][2] Critics answer that bycatch is one of the few causes managers can control. [1]
  • Most chum caught by the trawlers come from other rivers, as far away as Russia and Japan. About 17% are from western Alaska, but even 9% in 2021 meant more than 51,000 fish. [1]
  • In February the North Pacific Fishery Management Council, which writes many of the rules for the Bering Sea fleet, recommended a cap of 45,000 western Alaska chum. Critics said it was too high. [1]
  • The industry says every salmon is counted by observers or cameras, and every boat carries a device that lets salmon swim out of the net. [1][2] One captain said steering away from salmon on one trip burned nearly 3,000 gallons of fuel. [1]
  • Halibut and crab fishers face shrinking limits too, while Alaska's trawlers threw back about 96 million pounds of unwanted catch in 2025. [1][2]
  • Trawling is now an election issue. At least 10 of the 19 first candidates for governor criticised it, and the governor nominates five of the council's seven appointed voting members. [1][2]
  • In the US Senate race, Democrat Mary Peltola wants an end to large factory trawlers, and Republican Senator Dan Sullivan has a bill to cut bycatch. [1] In the House race, Bill Hill, an independent and a Bristol Bay salmon fisherman, is challenging Republican Nick Begich. [4]
  • Trawl nets that touch the seabed also stir up carbon stored in the mud. A 2024 study estimated the extra carbon dioxide could be up to twice what the world's fishing fleets burn in fuel. [3]
Salmon caught each year by Bering Sea pollock trawlers, as an average over the last ten years.

Who is involved

  • Bering Sea pollock fleet

    large trawlers, many owned by Seattle-area companies; they catch the fish for fish sticks, and salmon with it

  • Brooke Woods

    a Koyukon Alaska Native from Rampart and a member of the Yukon River Inter-Tribal Fish Commission; her son has never set a salmon net

  • North Pacific Fishery Management Council

    the body that writes many of the rules for the Bering Sea fleet; it recommended the 45,000 chum cap

  • At-Sea Processors Association

    a trade group for five Alaska pollock companies; its head, Matt Tinning, says salmon avoidance is built into the system

  • Mary Peltola and Dan Sullivan

    the Democratic and Republican candidates for Alaska's US Senate seat; both promise to limit trawling

How it unfolded

  1. 2021 9% of the chum caught by trawlers came from western Alaska, more than 51,000 fish [1]
  2. 2024 Alaska and Canada ban Chinook fishing on the Yukon River for seven years [1]
  3. 2025 Alaska's trawlers throw back about 96 million pounds of unwanted catch [1]
  4. February the North Pacific council recommends a cap of 45,000 western Alaska chum [1]
  5. 3 November Alaska votes for governor, US Senate and US House [1][4]

Where this points

Watch who wins the governor's race on 3 November, because the winner nominates five of the seven appointed members of the council that sets the trawlers' salmon cap. [1][4]

What is pushing on the whole day

The bar and the word are our reading of how hard each one is pushing today. The arrow is where it is heading. The evidence is in the stories below.

Weather farmers cannot plan for High↑

In Nyeri, in Kenya's highlands, a psychologist says about a third of his patients are farmers hit by repeated losses. [13] In Ethiopia, El Nino left some areas with their driest June and July on record. [9] Analysts at ING, a Dutch bank, say rain, drought and disease are a lasting threat to cocoa farms in West Africa. [6]

Big owners taking more land Building↑

A South African billionaire has bought more than 2,700 acres of Somerset countryside around his hotel. [10] In Italy, about 86% of public money for solar panels over crops went to large projects. [12] Many of Alaska's largest fishing boats are owned by companies near Seattle. [1]

Waters closed to fishing Building↑

The Yukon River has been closed to Chinook fishing since 2024. [1] Virginia shut part of the Little Wicomico River to oyster harvesting eight days into its season. [8] In Papua New Guinea, village elders close their own reef every few years so the fish can recover. [17]

The rest of the day

13 more stories on this beat.

Each with its own sources. None of these is a link to the story above.

  1. 02

    The Indus swallows farmland near Layyah

    The Indus, Pakistan's biggest river, destroyed Basti Kanjal, a village of more than 500 houses near the city of Layyah, in this year's floods. [11] Since June about 5,000 acres of farmland have been lost, and news reports put the number of people forced from home at 100,000. [11] A professor at Quaid-i-Azam University, writing in Dawn, says 38 years of satellite pictures show the river being pushed east by a canal, a barrage and earth flood banks. [11] A barrage is a low dam that turns river water into canals.

    Why it matters — The river is now 200 metres from its old channel by Layyah, and the city's flood bank ends 3.5km before the river's new edge. [11] If it keeps moving, it could flow around Taunsa Barrage, whose canals water millions of acres of farms. [11]

  2. 03

    Ethiopia plants 47 billion trees on its farmland

    Ethiopians have planted more than 47 billion tree seedlings in seven years, aiming for 50 billion by 2030. [9] Over the last century most of the country's forests were cut for farms, grazing and fuel, so rain now washes the topsoil away. [9] That damage costs Ethiopia an estimated $4.3 billion a year in smaller harvests and lost income. [9] In August, 26.6 million people planted 800 million seedlings in one day, Ethiopia's government says. [9]

    Barley grown by one Ethiopian farmer, Niku Argane, before and after he planted grass and trees around his fields.

    Why it matters — A 2026 study of 44,500 seedlings in southern Ethiopia found about 80% had survived. [9] One farmer's barley rose from about 1,800 to 3,200 pounds an acre after he planted trees and grass. [9] An Ethiopian restoration ecologist says the campaign counts trees planted more than trees kept alive; a government adviser disputes that. [9]

  3. 04

    Barry Callebaut's new plan fails to lift its shares

    Barry Callebaut, the world's biggest supplier of cocoa and chocolate to food companies, said last month it would also sell fillings and other ingredients. [5] Its share price fell further, to 1,035 Swiss francs, after a slide that began in February. [5] Cocoa prices are below their record of early 2025 but jumped in late August and again in early October. [6] Ghana and Ivory Coast grow over half the world's cocoa, and ING says climate damage there is lasting. [6]

    Why it matters — Big chocolate brands raised prices in 2024 and 2025, and in 2026 they reached the limit of what shoppers would pay, ING says. [6] It says cheaper chocolate could use more cocoa substitutes, while expensive brands keep real cocoa. [6]

  4. 05

    US farmers read the fine print of a China deal

    The American Farm Bureau Federation, the biggest US farmers' group, published on 8 October what is known about the US-China '30-for-30' trade framework. [7] China's commerce ministry says about 90% of the farm goods it covers will lose the extra import taxes added during the trade fight. [7] It is not a promise to buy anything, and it does not name whole soybeans. [7] China had still booked 11.1 million tonnes of US soybeans by 1 October, against none a year earlier. [7]

    Why it matters — US corn export sales are running 34% behind last year, a StoneX economist says. [7] Even after the cut, Australian and New Zealand farm goods could still pay less tax in China, because those countries have free-trade deals with it. [7]

  5. 06

    Kenyan farmers' losses turn into an illness

    Doctors in Nyeri, in Kenya's central highlands, say unreliable rain is damaging farmers' mental health. [13] Josephine Kihu has grown coffee for 30 years and now pays someone to water her trees because the rain is too light. [13] Charles Ndung'u lost 40 goats in three months to a dry spell and a livestock disease. [13] Kahindo Gacago, a psychologist at Outspan Hospital, says about a third of his patients are farmers hit by repeated losses. [13]

    Why it matters — Ndung'u sells goats to pay his children's school fees, so a dead herd also means missed schooling. [13] Gacago wants farmer support schemes to include mental health and better access to irrigation. [13]

  6. 07

    Virginia shuts an oyster river over Salmonella

    Virginia closed part of the Little Wicomico River to oyster and clam harvesting on 9 October. [8] Health officials linked shellfish from there to an outbreak of Salmonella, a food-poisoning germ, that has made at least five people ill in Pennsylvania. [8] The state's oyster season had opened only eight days earlier, and the closure runs until 7 November. [8] A second closure covers part of Lower Machodoc Creek until 29 October. [8]

    Why it matters — Virginia's public oyster grounds produce about 250,000 bushels a year, and the state spends $4 million to $10 million a year keeping those reefs alive. [8] Crabs and fish can still be caught in the closed water while the shellfish are tested. [8]

  7. 08

    Solar panels and peppers share fields in Spain

    In Murcia, in south-east Spain, researchers grow peppers, grapes and dragon fruit under solar panels, which is called agrivoltaics. [12] They found water-stressed peppers grew better under the panels than well-watered ones. [12] In southern Italy, Amazon and Apple buy power from such projects totalling more than 150 megawatts. [12] France requires these farms to keep at least 90% of normal crop yields, and Italy requires 70% of the land to stay in farming. [12]

    • Large projects86%
    • Everything else14%
    Where Italy's public money for solar panels over crops went, by a 2025 count of about 775 million euros.

    Why it matters — About 86% of Italy's 775 million euros of public money for these projects went to large ones, a 2025 review found. [12] Fabrizio Garbarino, who leads an Italian farmers' union, says data-centre developers are chasing farmers for their land. [12]

  8. 09

    A billionaire buys up a corner of Somerset

    Koos Bekker, a South African billionaire who chairs the tech company Naspers, has bought more than 2,700 acres around Bruton and Castle Cary in Somerset, England, the Guardian found. [10] His company runs the Newt, an 800-pound-a-night hotel with its own farms, and has bought pubs, a deli and farmhouses nearby. [10] Villagers have started a petition against pesticide spraying on its farmland. [10] Farmers suspect its new boreholes have dried up stretches of the River Brue. [10]

    Why it matters — Land next to one village used to be an organic farm and no longer is, a neighbour says. [10] The Newt says it employs more than 650 people who are from or live in the area. [10]

  9. 10

    Europe's forest law is weeks away

    From 30 December, large companies selling in the EU must comply with the EU Deforestation Regulation, a law meant to keep goods from newly cleared forest off its market. [14] Smaller firms follow on 30 June 2027, after two earlier delays. [14] Global Witness, a campaign group, says Mondelez, the maker of Toblerone, lobbied the US government to weaken it; Mondelez says it supports the law's aims. [14] The US ambassador to the EU calls it textbook overregulation. [14]

    Why it matters — Chocolate makers Barry Callebaut and Ferrero back the law. [14] A lawyer at the firm Browne Jacobson says a third delay cannot be ruled out, but a December start is more likely. [14]

  10. 11

    Footballers pick apples in Japan's apple city

    Two players from Blancdieu Hirosaki FC, a fifth-tier football club, work in apple orchards between matches and training. [15] Hirosaki, in northern Japan, grows more apples than any other Japanese city. [15] Its apple businesses fell from 4,045 in 2020 to 3,464 in 2025, and the average farm worker is in their sixties. [15] Since 2025 the city has run seminars to bring people from sports clubs and other groups into farming. [15]

    Apple businesses in Hirosaki, Japan's biggest apple-growing city, by the national farm census.

    Why it matters — Midfielder Shota Shimogami, 25, works about four hours on weekday afternoons after practice. [15] Orchard owners also get to show their apples to the club's fans. [15]

  11. 12

    Some reefs hold more fish than expected

    Scientists who checked nearly 1,700 coral reefs found more than a dozen with far more fish than expected, which they call bright spots. [17] One is off Muluk, a village in Papua New Guinea, where elders close part of the reef to fishing every few years. [17] Their new review of more than 70 studies finds three things in common: a local fix, people able to adapt, and the right to manage their own waters. [17]

    Why it matters — Papua New Guinea's constitution gives coastal villages the right to manage their sea, so Muluk can keep outside fishers away. [17] On the Bering Sea, the rules for the trawlers are set by a council whose members are appointed. [1]

  12. 13

    Detroit's food scraps go back to a farm

    Scrap Soils, a small Detroit company, collects food scraps from more than 70 homes and businesses each week and takes them to Sanctuary Farms to be made into compost. [18] Pickup for a home starts at $15 a month. [18] Food left to rot in a landfill gives off methane, a gas that warms the planet quickly. [18] Detroit opened its first city drop-off site for food scraps in the past year, and hundreds of residents signed up. [18]

    Why it matters — A 2023 count found 400 city-backed food-scrap programmes in the US, far fewer than ordinary rubbish services. [18] Detroit plans more drop-off bins as part of a plan to keep 15% of its waste out of landfill. [18]

  13. 14

    Smoked fish recalled in six US states

    Krasnyi Oktyabr, a Brooklyn wholesaler, is recalling packs of Starfish Seafood Trio, cold-smoked salmon, halibut and trout made in Latvia. [16] New York State's farm department found the fish may carry Listeria, a germ that can cause serious illness. [16] The packs were sold in New York, Florida, Georgia, Massachusetts and North and South Carolina. [16] Nobody has reported being ill. [16]

    Why it matters — Listeria can take up to 70 days to cause symptoms, and pregnant women, babies and older people are most at risk. [16]

02 Lesson why it matters

Alaska cannot cool the sea, so it argues over the nets

Warm water did most of the damage to Alaska's salmon, but nobody can vote on the sea, so the fight goes to the trawl nets a rule can limit.

The twist

Nobody can make the Bering Sea colder. A fishing council can limit how many salmon the trawlers catch, so that is where the fight goes.

The picture

  • From western Alaska17%
  • From other rivers83%
Where the chum salmon caught by pollock trawlers come from, as a recent average. The other rivers stretch as far as Russia and Japan.

How it works

  1. Salmon runs in western Alaska collapse
  2. Scientists blame warmer sea water most
  3. Nobody in Alaska can cool the Bering Sea
  4. The salmon caught in trawl nets can be capped by a rule
  5. So votes, rules and anger gather around the nets

The same force, elsewhere today

Where this chain is also running, in today's other stories.

  • Kenya's coffee and goat farmers

    Nobody can make the rain in Nyeri reliable, so the psychologist there asks for irrigation and mental-health help, the parts of the loss people can change.

  • Ethiopia's 47 billion trees

    Ethiopians cannot stop El Nino's dry spells, so they plant trees and grass to keep their soil from washing away.

  • Barry Callebaut's move into fillings

    No company can fix the weather on West African cocoa farms, so Barry Callebaut sells fillings and other makers plan to use less cocoa.

Where you've seen this

Smog in a city

a city cannot stop the wind bringing in dirty air, so it argues about banning old cars from its own centre

School results

a school cannot change how poor its pupils' families are, so the fight is over class sizes and tests

Flood defences

nobody can stop the storm, so towns argue about who pays for the wall

The catch

Cutting the smaller cause still matters when only a few fish are left. But if the sea keeps warming, a lower salmon cap on its own may not bring the runs back.

And the whole of it

The family on the Yukon, the captain on the trawler and the shopper buying fish sticks all depend on the same warming sea. Each of them sees one piece of it: an empty river net, a fuel bill or a price on a box. None of them can see how much the sea itself has changed.

03 Truth what's really going on

What is really going on

Scientists blame warmer sea water most for the loss of western Alaska's salmon, and no rule can change the sea. A fishing council can cap the salmon that pollock trawlers catch, and Alaska's next governor will nominate five of that council's seven appointed members, so the fight has moved to the nets and to the 3 November vote. [1][4]

Why it works on us — The story is told through one Native family with its boat tied up and one trawler captain at sea, which makes a sea-wide change in water temperature look like a contest between two boats.

Who gains

  • Owners of the large pollock trawlers, many based near Seattle — The recommended chum cap, which critics call too high, lets the fleet keep fishing, and much of the money from the catch leaves Alaska. [1]
  • Candidates who promise to limit trawling — The issue pulls Democrats, Republicans, sport fishers and Native villages to the same side, an unusual mix of voters. [2]
  • Large solar investors in Italy — About 86% of the country's public money for solar panels over crops went to large projects. [12]
  • Koos Bekker's Newt estate in Somerset — It keeps buying farmland, pubs and shops around Bruton and now holds more than 2,700 acres. [10]
  • US farm exporters selling to China — If the framework works as China describes, about 90% of covered farm goods lose the extra taxes added during the trade fight. [7]

Who pays

  • Native families on the Yukon River — They have been barred from Chinook fishing since 2024, and villages like Rampart have no grocery store to replace the fish. [1]
  • Villages along the Indus near Layyah — About 5,000 acres of farmland have been lost since June and about 100,000 people forced from home. [11]
  • Kenyan livestock and coffee farmers — One farmer lost 40 goats in three months, and the money from goats pays school fees. [13]
  • Barry Callebaut's shareholders — The share price has fallen since February, to 1,035 Swiss francs, and the new plan did not stop it. [5]
  • Virginia's oyster harvesters — Part of the Little Wicomico River is closed until 7 November, eight days into the season. [8]

What nobody knows yet

Open questions from across today’s stories — ours included.

  • 01

    How much of the salmon decline the trawl nets cause.

    Scientists name warmer water as the main cause, and none of our sources puts a number on the share that bycatch adds. [1][2]

  • 02

    Whether the recommended cap of 45,000 western Alaska chum becomes a rule, and when.

    The council recommended it in February, and our sources do not say when or whether it takes effect. [1]

  • 03

    Whether the next governor will change who sits on the council.

    Several candidates promised to, and the election is on 3 November. [1][4]

  • 04

    Whether the US-China trade framework will lower the taxes on US farm goods, and how soon.

    The size of the cuts and the start date have not been published, and whole soybeans are not named. [7]

  • 05

    Whether the Indus will break through near Layyah.

    The river is 200 metres from its old channel there, and the city's flood bank stops 3.5km short; our source reports no plan to close the gap. [11]

  • 06

    Whether the Newt's new boreholes dried up the River Brue.

    Farmers suspect it, and a neighbour is negotiating with the hotel through the Environment Agency; no finding has been published. [10]

  • 07

    How many of Ethiopia's 47 billion seedlings are still alive.

    One study found about 80% of 44,500 seedlings survived in the south, but no national count of surviving trees is given. [9]

  • 08

    Where the Salmonella in Virginia's shellfish came from.

    Officials linked the illnesses to oysters from the Little Wicomico River and are still testing the shellfish. [8]

  • 09

    Whether Europe's forest law starts on 30 December.

    It has been delayed twice, and a lawyer says a third delay cannot be ruled out. [14]

04 Hope carry this

On a hillside in central Ethiopia, Niku Argane planted grass and trees around his fields, and his barley harvest rose from about 1,800 pounds an acre to about 3,200. A study of 44,500 seedlings planted in southern Ethiopia in 2023 found about 80% still alive.

Also true today

  • Off Muluk, a village in Papua New Guinea, elders close part of their reef to fishing every few years, and the reef holds far more fish than scientists expected.
  • In Murcia, in south-east Spain, peppers short of water grew better under solar panels than peppers given plenty of water.
  • Detroit opened its first city drop-off site for food scraps in the past year, and hundreds of residents signed up to bring their buckets.

Across the beats