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Food & Farming · Saturday, 5 September 2026

01 Briefing what happened

Trump signed two orders to rebuild the US cattle herd. The country has 1.2 million farmers over 65 and 57,000 under 25.

Food & Farming 25 sources

The orders reach wolves, beef labels and the meat packers. The herd is the smallest since the 1950s, and the government's own new insurance runs two years because that is how long a held-back heifer takes.

1.2m vs 57,000

US farm producers over 65, against those under 25

the department cites it as the reason for a new advocate for beginning and veteran farmers [2]

75 years

since the US cattle herd was last this small

the department says the number of young females held back for breeding has begun to rise [1]

2 years

the period covered by the new heifer insurance

it pays the gap when keeping a young female for breeding is worth less than selling her for meat [3]

18.7%

forecast rise in the average US farm business's net cash income

to $135,000 in 2026, with all nine US farm regions rising [5]

The lead story — what happened

  • President Trump signed two executive orders aimed at American ranchers on 4 September, and the US Department of Agriculture announced four more actions the same day. [1]
  • The first order tells the US interior department to decide whether grey wolves and Mexican wolves can come off the endangered species list, and to make it easier to shoot predators legally. [2]
  • The same order tells the agriculture department to review whether it can make country-of-origin labels compulsory on beef. [2]
  • The second order tells the department to prioritise investigations of the meat packers - the firms that buy ranchers' cattle - for restraining trade or manipulating prices, and to report to Trump on enforcement within a year. [2]
  • It also tells the food safety service to widen the programme that lets state-inspected meat cross state lines, and to remove reporting requirements it judges unnecessary. [2][4]
  • The US cattle herd is the smallest since the 1950s, which the department calls a 75-year low. [1][3]
  • Nothing signed on Thursday adds an animal. The department's own new insurance, announced on 31 August, covers a young female kept for breeding over a two-year period. [3]
  • The department also said it will push other parts of the US government, including its health, justice, veterans and war departments, to buy American beef for prisons and hospitals. [2]
  • Its own page names the harder problem. The average American farmer is 58.1 years old, with more than 1.2 million producers over 65 and about 57,000 under 25. [2]
  • A food company running farmer programmes reports the same shape worldwide: the average farmer is around 58, 9% of US producers are under 35, and 11% of European farm managers are under 40. [6]
  • Money is not the obvious missing piece. Government economists forecast the average farm business's net cash income up 18.7% to $135,000 this year, with cattle farms the one livestock group whose income is rising. [5]

Who is involved

  • Donald Trump

    the US president; he signed the two orders on 4 September

  • Brooke Rollins

    the US agriculture secretary; she announced the initiative behind the orders on 31 August and four more actions alongside them

  • The Food Safety and Inspection Service

    the US agency that inspects meat and poultry plants; it has been told to widen state-inspected shipping across state lines and cut some reporting rules

  • The meat packers

    the companies that buy ranchers' cattle and turn them into beef; the agriculture secretary calls the market concentrated and foreign-owned, and the order aims investigators at it

What is pushing on this

Political urgency High

two orders and four agency actions announced on one day [1]

The clock a cow keeps Steady

the new insurance runs two years because that is how long a held-back heifer takes [3]

Who is left to farm High

21 US producers over 65 for every one under 25 [2]

Pressure on the meat packers Building

the order directs more staff and resources at price cases against the firms that buy the cattle [2]

How it unfolded

  1. Oct 2025 the department publishes its plan to fortify the American beef industry [3]
  2. 31 Aug Rollins announces the Ranchers First Initiative, including insurance for held-back heifers [3]
  3. 4 Sep Trump signs two orders; the department adds four more actions [1]
  4. 30 Sep the extended deadline for the $500m regional processing fund [2][4]
  5. Early 2027 the heifer insurance is expected to be open to all ranchers [2]

Where this points

Watch whether the interior department actually moves to delist the wolves and whether a mandatory beef label is written into a rule; both are reviews so far, and neither carries a date. [2]

The rest of the day

19 more stories on this beat.

Each with its own sources. None of these is a link to the story above.

  1. 02

    Two of three US parasite labs shut

    The Trump administration is closing two of the three US agriculture department research projects that study cyclospora, the stomach parasite behind this summer's outbreak, Politico reported and Reuters relayed on 30 August. [7] Congress did not fund the two projects, at the Beltsville research centre outside Washington, for the 2026 financial year. [7] The third keeps its money but is being moved from Maryland to Iowa, and every scientist working on the parasite has declined to go. [7] The department says none of the research has been disrupted. [7]

    Why it matters — More than 17,000 Americans were confirmed sick this summer, with nearly 500 admitted to hospital and two dead. [9] Reuters wrote on 4 September that the outbreak has exposed a weakened US public health system. [8]

  2. 03

    Recalls are flat. Illnesses are not.

    US federal agencies have published about 170 food recalls so far in 2026, against 320 in all of 2025 and 296 in 2024, Civil Eats reported on 3 September. [9] So recalls are not rising. Illnesses are: cyclospora sickened more than 17,000 people this summer against 1,180 confirmed cases last summer. [9] Sarah Sorscher of the Center for Science in the Public Interest said nobody can say whether American food is safer or less safe than before. [9] Her reason is FoodNet, the joint federal and state network that tracks foodborne illness: it was never adequately funded. [9]

    Why it matters — Lettuce prices fell 16.4% from June to July as shoppers avoided it, and farms in California's Salinas Valley abandoned crops and cut staff. [9]

  3. 04

    A million US children off food aid, and school lunches with them

    More than a million American children have lost food stamps since the One Big Beautiful Bill Act was signed in July 2025, according to the Center on Budget and Policy Priorities. [19] That reaches beyond the household. A US programme called the Community Eligibility Provision pays for free meals for every child in a school when at least a quarter of pupils are on assistance, and covers the whole bill at 62.5%. [19] More than 49,000 public schools used it in 2024-25, and districts in San Antonio, Houston and Miami-Dade have ended universal free meals this school year. [19]

    Why it matters — Diane Pratt-Heavner of the School Nutrition Association called it a possible tip of the iceberg, and said the full effect will show over several years rather than this term. [19]

  4. 05

    The UN fish-farming target nobody has costed

    The UN's Food and Agriculture Organization wants fish farming to grow 75%, and has not said which species or systems should deliver it. [12] Farmed salmon and shrimp eat meat, and are fed on fishmeal and fish oil made by grinding down small wild fish such as anchovies and sardines. [12] The Changing Markets Foundation modelled the possible routes with the University of British Columbia. [12] A path weighted to those species could push demand for wild fish to 41.4m tonnes a year by 2040, equal to 46% of the entire 2020 wild catch. [12] Fish eaten per person in Senegal, a centre of fishmeal production, fell by more than 10kg between 1999 and 2019. [12]

    Why it matters — Fish farming already supplies more than half the aquatic animals people eat, so how it grows decides whether a sardine reaches a west African plate or a feed bag. [12]

  5. 06

    Jersey more than triples its protected sea

    Jersey, a self-governing island off the coast of France, has more than tripled the area of sea closed to trawling and dredging. [13] Stephen Viney, who heads the island's fishermen's association, said the fleet is losing some of its most productive grounds and that the change had been a slow car crash coming. [13] The environment minister, Mary Le Hegarat, said the measures were evidence-led and built through consultation. [13] The closed patches include maerl, a seaweed that hardens into reef-like beds; conservationists say about 200 species have been recorded in a small area of it. [13]

    Why it matters — Fishers were given new licences for bluefin tuna and a local restaurant has put it on the menu, but the tuna season is short and the lost grounds were year-round. [13]

  6. 07

    England's fish counters have been broken for a year

    The Environment Agency, which regulates rivers in England, counts salmon and sea trout swimming upstream on the Tyne, Wear and Tees. [14] The counter on the Wear has not worked since the start of 2025, and a fault on the Tyne means every month but one this year is an estimate. [14] The Tyne's working counters recorded 6,471 fish in July, against 11,845 in the last July that was actually counted, in 2022. [14] Only 30 fish were logged on the Tees before July. [14] The agency says it is too early to draw conclusions and is negotiating a contract to repair the Wear counter. [14]

    Why it matters — The Tyne is the only English river whose salmon are classed as not at risk, and the agency's own forecast is that it loses that status by 2029. [14]

  7. 08

    Italy sells the crab it will not eat

    Fishermen in Italy's Po Delta, south of Venice, burned most of the Atlantic blue crabs they caught for two years, because few Italians would eat the alien predator that was wiping out their prized Manila clams. [15] The Polesine cooperative's revenue fell 75% to 15m euros across 2024 and 2025, and its active members dropped from 1,500 to 850. [15] It switched to exporting the crabs, has sold every one it caught this year, and forecasts 20m euros in revenue. [15] Containment experiments continue, including releasing tens of thousands of octopuses to eat them. [15]

    Why it matters — The market came back faster than the fishermen did: revenue is above where it started and the cooperative is still 650 members short. [15]

  8. 09

    A grain you plant once every few years

    Kernza is a perennial grain - sown once and harvested for several seasons instead of replanted every year - that the Land Institute in Salina, Kansas has been domesticating since 2001. [16] Its roots reach several feet down, so it rides out short droughts and soaks up heavy rain that would otherwise wash soil away. [16] It also yields only 20 to 40% of what wheat yields in the same area, because the plant spends energy on roots as well as seed. [16] Last year Kernza covered 3,511 US acres, against 37.2 million acres of wheat. [16]

    Why it matters — Bryce Black, a fourth-generation Kansas farmer, harvested his lowest wheat yield since 2017 after a dry winter and spring, and says a crop he would not have to replant for four or five years is what makes it tempting. [16]

  9. 10

    US farm payments run on yields frozen years ago

    Some US crop support payments are worked out from a Price Loss Coverage base yield: a per-acre figure fixed from a historic period and left alone until Congress updates it. [18] Seeds and methods keep improving, so the frozen figure drifts below what farms actually grow. Agricultural economists writing for Farmdoc found that for the 2025 crop year, barley, oats, rapeseed, corn, soybeans and two kinds of rice all sat more than 20% below their trend yields. [18] Only lentils, chickpeas and mustard were above. [18] Payments also run on historic base acres, which in 2025 ranged from 200% above planted acres for barley to 86% below for rapeseed. [18]

    Why it matters — Landowners were allowed to decline updates when they were offered, so the payments have piled up in whichever crops paid best at the time rather than whatever is in the ground. [18]

  10. 11

    A machine sifted millions of plant proteins

    Researchers at the University of Leeds built a computer model that predicts which plant proteins can act as emulsifiers, the ingredients that hold oil and water together so a sauce or a burger does not separate. [17] Screening tens of millions of candidates, it found nearly 800. [17] The emulsifiers widely used today include dairy ones such as casein and whey, so plant versions matter to firms making meat substitutes. [17] Until now the search was trial and error; the team tested its method against pea and potato proteins already sold and found it worked. [17]

    Why it matters — Many of the proteins it turned up had never been considered for the job, which is the part a laboratory bench could not have done in the time. [17]

  11. 12

    A US meat inspector extends a $500m deadline

    The US Food Safety and Inspection Service said on 4 September that the deadline for its Strengthening Processing for US Ranchers programme, a $500m fund helping regional beef plants with the cost of buying cattle, has moved to 30 September. [2][4] The same bulletin says the two executive orders direct the service to expand state inspection programmes and support small processors. [4] Its administrator, Justin Ransom, told a food safety conference in Arkansas on 3 September about pilots shortening the salmonella testing window for poultry plants and widening surface sampling for listeria in ready-to-eat plants. [4]

    Why it matters — The orders ask the same agency to cut reporting requirements and to widen inspection to more small plants at once, and its administrator points to its workforce and data systems as what lets it move quickly on risk. [2][4]

  12. 13

    France: 81 sick from pumpkin seeds

    A salmonella outbreak linked to pumpkin seeds has infected 81 people in France, Reuters reported on 4 September. [10] Salmonella is the second most common foodborne illness in the world and infects about 1.35 million Americans a year, with roughly 26,500 hospital admissions. [11] An outbreak is counted when two or more people fall ill from the same food, and US regulators have logged ten salmonella outbreaks in 2026, tied to jalapenos, backyard poultry, shell eggs, moringa powder and pet reptiles. [11]

    Why it matters — Seeds are eaten raw and keep for months, so a contaminated batch sits in cupboards long after the notice goes out.

  13. 14

    PepsiCo on who will farm next

    The average farmer worldwide is about 58 years old, 9% of US producers are under 35, and 11% of European farm managers are under 40. [6] PepsiCo, one of the world's largest food and drink companies, runs training and mentoring schemes for young farmers in Europe, the United States and South Africa, its social impact head Monica Baur told AgFunderNews on 1 September. [6] She named three barriers that recur everywhere: the cost of land, money and machinery; missing skills and routes into the work; and communities too weak for a family to stay in. [6]

    Why it matters — A company that buys crops has a direct reason to care who grows them in fifteen years, which is roughly when the current generation finishes retiring. [6]

  14. 15

    Mexico urged to stop doing salt in pieces

    Mexicans eat more salt than the World Health Organization recommends, and researchers writing in the Journal of Human Hypertension on 3 September argue the country's response is too fragmented to change that. [20] Mexico already puts warning labels on the front of packages and limits ultra-processed food sold in schools. [20] The authors call those isolated measures, and want a single national programme covering monitoring, reformulation by manufacturers, marketing rules, taxes and the places people actually buy food. [20] High blood pressure is the largest changeable driver of heart disease deaths in the country. [20]

    Why it matters — It is a comment piece rather than a new study, and it is arguing about sequencing: whether partial measures add up or cancel out. [20]

  15. 16

    Labels did not change what people said they would eat

    Fifty people in Hungary tasted boiled potato, chips and mashed potato in a mixed real-and-virtual setting, while being shown NOVA processing classifications and Nutri-Score nutrition grades. [21] How much people liked the three did not differ significantly, and the interaction between the product and the information shown was not significant either. [21] What did differ was which they thought healthiest and would be willing to eat: boiled potato came out most favourably and chips least. [21]

    Why it matters — It is one small trial published in npj Science of Food, and it suggests the ranking people already carry did most of the work the labels were meant to do. [21]

  16. 17

    A nutrition class added to an exercise class

    Thirty-two Brazilians aged 50 to 80 with high blood pressure were split into two groups for twelve weeks. [22] Everyone walked, jogged and did calisthenics twice a week on an outdoor track; half also got six group sessions on food quality based on Brazil's dietary guidelines, with no calorie limit. [22] Twenty-nine finished. [22] Fasting blood glucose ended 10 mg/dL lower in the group that got the food sessions. [22] Blood pressure fell within that group, but the gap between the two groups was not statistically significant, and body composition and fitness did not differ. [22]

    Why it matters — The authors report it as a test of whether community exercise programmes can carry nutrition sessions at all, not as a finding about any particular food. [22]

  17. 18

    Lincolnshire's food waste bins wait on the Strait of Hormuz

    Boston Borough Council in eastern England has pushed the start of its household food waste collections from September to 19 October, because parts for its new recycling lorries were held up by disruption in the Strait of Hormuz. [23] The strait is the narrow sea route out of the Gulf, largely closed by Iran after US and Israeli strikes in February, with traffic still heavily restricted. [23] Weekly food waste collection became a legal requirement for councils in England in March. [23] Once running, the waste is turned into energy and fertiliser. [23]

    Why it matters — A shipping route thousands of miles away decides when a household in Lincolnshire starts sending its leftovers to a digester instead of a landfill. [23]

  18. 19

    US Congress sends a stopgap funding bill

    The US House of Representatives voted 370 to 48 on 1 September for a short-term bill keeping the US federal government funded past the end of the financial year on 30 September, and the US Senate had already passed it. [24] Lawmakers wanted to avoid a repeat of last autumn's 43-day shutdown and a 76-day shutdown of the homeland security department, both of which fell in the middle of a campaign. [24]

    Why it matters — The annual agriculture spending bill is the same instrument that removed the money from two US cyclospora research projects for this financial year. [7]

  19. 20

    A South African town filters its river with stones and burnt wood

    In Langrug, an informal settlement in South Africa's Western Cape, researchers including Kevin Winter built a treatment system on an abandoned wastewater site. [25] River water is pumped by solar power through cells of large stones, then biochar - wood burned at 800C - then smaller stones and sand, taking five days. [25] Winter says it removes about 99% of the toxins before the water goes back to the river, and about 3,000 litres is held back to irrigate food gardens. [25] Langrug has grown from 3,000 people to more than 26,000, mostly on seasonal farm work. [25]

    Why it matters — The Western Cape came close to running its reservoirs dry in 2018, and about 31,000 farm workers in the region lost their jobs in the drought that caused it. [25]

02 Lesson why it matters

The money stayed. The scientists left.

A government can keep paying for a research project and still lose every scientist on it, because a person is allowed to say no to being moved.

The twist

You can keep paying for the work and still lose it, because what the money was really buying was a person who is allowed to say no.

How it works

  1. The work is done by people who took years to learn it
  2. The money for that work can be moved or cut in a day
  3. So the money moves, and the people are told to follow it
  4. Some retire, some refuse, some go and do something else
  5. The budget line survives and the years they carried do not

The same force, elsewhere today

Where this chain is also running, in today's other stories.

  • Two of three US parasite labs shut

    the third project kept its funding and lost every scientist on it, because they would not move from Maryland to Iowa

  • Italy sells the crab it will not eat

    the cooperative found a market and is heading for 20m euros, but its membership had already fallen from 1,500 to 850 and those people have not come back

  • PepsiCo on who will farm next

    the same step at the front instead of the back: 9% of US producers are under 35, so the years of learning are not being started

  • A grain you plant once every few years

    twenty-five years of breeding have produced 3,511 acres of Kernza, which is what it looks like when the slow part cannot be paid to hurry

Where you've seen this

Air traffic control

a tower can be fully funded and still short of controllers, because training one takes years

Hospitals

a new ward opens on a budget line and then waits for nurses who already work somewhere else

Shipyards

an order for ships arrives decades after the welders who built the last ones retired

The catch

Sometimes money is exactly the answer. A cold store, a lorry, a vaccine can all be bought this month. The rule only bites when the missing thing had to be grown or taught.

And the whole of it

Everyone in these stories is doing something sensible from where they sit. The US Congress cut two line items. A scientist near retirement declined a move to Iowa. A rancher sold a young female because this year's price was good. None of them chose a country with 1.2 million farmers over 65 and 57,000 under 25, and none of them can see the other three.

03 Truth what's really going on

What is really going on

The US cattle herd is the smallest since the 1950s, and the answer signed on 4 September was a review of wolf protections, a review of beef labels, and an order to investigate the meat packers. None of that makes a calf, and the government's own new insurance runs two years because that is how long a held-back heifer takes.

Why it works on us — Two orders and four agency actions announced on one day reads like a great deal being done, and nothing in the announcement says when any of it reaches a field.

Who gains

  • Ranchers holding back young females — the new insurance covers the value of a heifer kept for breeding over two years, so the choice that costs money now is partly underwritten. [3]
  • Small and regional meat plants — the orders widen the programme letting state-inspected meat cross state lines and cut some reporting requirements, and the $500m processing fund's deadline moved out to 30 September. [2][4]
  • The Polesine fishermen's cooperative in Italy — it sold every blue crab it caught this year and forecasts 20m euros, after two years of burning the catch. [15]
  • Companies making meat substitutes — a University of Leeds model handed them nearly 800 plant proteins that behave like the dairy emulsifiers they are trying to replace. [17]
  • Landowners whose base acres sit in high-paying crops — US support payments still run on historic acres and frozen yields, and owners were allowed to decline updates, so the payments concentrated where they were largest. [18]
  • Fishmeal factories in Senegal — a 75% growth target with no species named leaves the feed-intensive route open, and their input is the same sardinella local fishers want kept for people. [12]

Who pays

  • US scientists who study foodborne parasites — two of three projects lost their funding and the third was moved to Iowa; some are retiring or leaving rather than go. [7]
  • Children in schools that dropped universal free meals — more than a million American children have come off food stamps, and the school funding formula reads that enrolment. [19]
  • Jersey's trawler and dredge fleet — the protected area has more than tripled and takes in grounds the fishermen's association calls their most productive. [13]
  • Households near west African fishmeal plants — fish eaten per person in Senegal fell more than 10kg between 1999 and 2019 while the factories bought the same fish. [12]
  • Salinas Valley lettuce growers and their crews — lettuce prices fell 16.4% from June to July as shoppers avoided it, and farms abandoned crops and cut staff. [9]
  • Kansas wheat growers — Bryce Black harvested about 1,500 of the 1,800 acres he planted after a dry winter and spring, his lowest yield since taking over the farm in 2017. [16]

What nobody knows yet

Open questions from across today’s stories — ours included.

  • 01

    Whether any wolf actually comes off the endangered list.

    The order tells the US interior department to decide whether grey wolves and Mexican wolves meet the criteria, and sets no deadline. [2]

  • 02

    Whether beef country-of-origin labelling becomes compulsory.

    The order asks the agriculture department to review its authorities and make legislative recommendations, which is a study rather than a rule. [2]

  • 03

    Whether the cyclospora research survives the move to Iowa.

    The department says none of the research has been disrupted, and the reporting says every scientist on the parasite has declined to relocate. Both can be true today, and nobody has published who will do the work. [7]

  • 04

    How risky American food actually is.

    FoodNet, the joint federal and state network that tracks foodborne illness, was never adequately funded, and an official at the Center for Science in the Public Interest says nobody can tell whether food is safer or less safe than before. [9]

  • 05

    Which species the UN's 75% growth in fish farming is supposed to come from.

    Neither the FAO roadmap nor its sustainability guidelines say, and the two routes modelled differ by nearly 7m tonnes of wild fish a year - 34.6m against 41.4m by 2040. [12]

  • 06

    How many salmon and sea trout actually ran up the Wear and the Tyne.

    The Wear counter has not worked since the start of 2025 and the Tyne's readings for all but one month this year are estimates, so the decline is real but the size of it is not measured. [14]

  • 07

    Whether losing food stamps is what ended universal free school meals in Houston, San Antonio and Miami-Dade.

    School nutrition experts told NPR it is unclear how much the fall in SNAP enrolment contributed, and that the effect will emerge over years. [19]

  • 08

    Whether anyone outside the US government has examined the two orders.

    The only account of them in the sources this edition gathered is the government's own press release, its own Ranchers First page and its own food-safety bulletin. [1][2][4]

04 Hope carry this

Fishermen in Italy's Po Delta burned most of the blue crabs they caught for two years. This year they have sold every one, and their cooperative expects 20 million euros.

Also true today

  • In Langrug, South Africa, river water pumped by solar power through stones, burnt wood and sand comes out with about 99 percent of its toxins gone. Three thousand litres of it is held back to water food gardens.
  • A computer model at the University of Leeds sorted tens of millions of plant proteins and found nearly 800 that hold oil and water together the way milk proteins do.

Across the beats