Thursday, 27 August 2026
27 August 2026
- In brief
- 1France bends the rules that define comte and beaufort, because the grass is gone
- 2Crop tour puts US corn under USDA
- 3EPA weighs 34 refinery waivers
- 4Black Sea attacks squeeze wheat
- 5Sulfur past $1,000 lifts fertiliser
- 6Two egg outbreaks, 513 people
- 7Michigan's cherry capital is failing
- 8Pennsylvania opens $10m in freeze grants
- 9USDA puts $95m into school food
- 10Longer season, same spring frost
27 Aug · Food · In brief
Food · Thursday, 27 August 2026
Food, in brief
10 stories · 31 sources
Swipe up for the day in brief ↑Scroll down for the day in brief ↓
What is moving · 1 of 4
Pasture failure
Grass growth is a third under its long-run average, and Kansas drought deepened again last week under triple-digit heat.
What is moving · 2 of 4
Label credibility
Seven protected cheeses now have a waiver or have asked for one, and roquefort's sheep graziers are next in the queue.
What is moving · 3 of 4
Dairy demand shifting
Buyers want protein: whey is at a record world price and America is short of cottage cheese, while ice-cream sales fall.
What is moving · 4 of 4
Adaptation effort
Shropshire breeders are crossing wild lettuce relatives for heat tolerance, and a Gloucestershire farm has switched to flood-tolerant grass.
5 sources
Food, in brief
- 1France to relax cheese production rules after drought takes toll on grazing land
- 4How will extreme weather in the West affect our food?
- 5Heatwaves spur efforts in Shropshire to find drought-resistant crops
- 9Does ice-cream have a future in the age of wellness fads and weight-loss drugs?
- 24Kansas Drought Worsens, Heat and Dry Conditions Persist
France bends the rules that define comte and beaufort, because the grass is gone
Swipe up for the story ↑Scroll down for the story ↓
France's farm ministry gave makers of comte, beaufort and abondance a temporary break from the grazing rules their protected label requires.
up from 3.66% in 2010, because buyers pay for solids, not volume
Who is involved
INAO
the French agency that writes and polices the protected-origin rules, and granted the waivers
Who is involved
Comte, beaufort and abondance makers
first to be allowed feed from outside their own area
Salers producers
about 70% stopped making cheese instead of bending the rule
Why it matters
The test is whether the waivers stop at this summer: the agency has more cheeses queued, and roquefort's sheep graziers have already asked.
How it works
A promise is only worth what it costs to keep
How it works
A rule everyone would follow anyway proves nothing, so the only year it means something is the year keeping it hurts.
How it works · step 1 of 5
A label promises a way of making, not a taste
How it works · step 2 of 5
The promise is worth something because it cannot be bent
How it works · step 3 of 5
A bad year makes keeping it expensive
How it works · step 4 of 5
The rule is relaxed so the makers survive
How it works · step 5 of 5
The promise is now known to be bendable
The twist
A rule only proves something in the years obeying it hurts, and that is exactly the year it gets suspended.
The catch
Bending a rule can also be the honest thing: a promise kept until every maker is gone protects a name nobody makes any more.
The whole
Everyone here is acting reasonably: the farmer with no grass, the minister who cannot watch herds sold, the agency that must keep the name meaning something.
The whole
The guarantee still gets spent, and no one seat, ours included, can see how much.
What's really going on
France is protecting its cheesemakers by relaxing the definition of the cheese, which moves the cost off farmers now and onto the label's meaning later.
Why it works on people
The relief is announced as a technical, temporary adjustment, and that framing is what makes a change to a permanent guarantee sound like paperwork.
Who gains
Comte, beaufort and abondance makers
They keep producing and selling under the protected name while feeding bought-in grain.
Who gains
Feed and grain merchants
A rule that kept outside fodder out of three protected areas has been lifted at once.
Who pays
Salers makers who stopped
About 70% paused production rather than break the rule, and had no waiver while they did it.
Who pays
Everyone who pays extra for the label
The premium buys a guarantee about method, and the method is suspended for this year's cheese.
Nobody knows yet
Whether this summer's waivers end with this summer.
No source in the pool states an expiry date, and the agency is already preparing more of them.
Nobody knows yet
What a relaxed rule does to what shoppers will pay for these cheeses.
No price data for the affected cheeses appears anywhere in the pool.
Good news
France did not let the label quietly slip; it said out loud what was being suspended and why. A promise bent in public is one that can still be mended.
The short version
That's the story in short.
The whole story has 12 more parts.
or swipe up for the next storyor scroll on for the next story ↓
The whole story, in 12 parts ↓
Part 1 of 12 · Who else is involved
Annie Genevard
France's agriculture minister, holding crisis talks with local authorities next week
Part 2 of 12
They may now supplement their cows' diets with fodder and grain brought in from outside their own protected area, which the label normally forbids.
Part 3 of 12
Comte is France's top-selling traditional cheese, with more than 62,000 tonnes made last year from raw milk in the Jura mountains.
Part 4 of 12
Drought covered 95% of mainland France in July, and grass on permanent pasture was growing a third below its 1989-2018 average on 10 August.
Part 5 of 12
INAO, the agency that writes and polices the labels, called the drought historic and is preparing the same relief for reblochon, cantal and two blue cheeses.
Part 6 of 12
About 70% of the makers of salers, another protected cheese, stopped production this summer rather than break the rule.
Part 7 of 12
One Normandy dairy is turning out 400 to 450 neufchatel cheeses a day instead of the usual 600 to 700, because the cows give less milk.
Part 8 of 12
It is not only cheese: French potato growers expect a 23% smaller crop after five heatwaves, and the grape harvest has started early.
Part 9 of 12
No European food crop escaped this drought, and Rabobank puts global farm productivity 21% below where it would be without climate change.
Part 10 of 12
Forecasters say El Nino is strengthening, and that Pacific warming is part of what made this European drought one of the worst in living memory.
Part 11 of 12
Satellites show heat and drought push plants to peak their water use up to two hours earlier in the day.
Part 11 of 12
A second study puts the spread of combined drought-and-heat zones at an extra 10 million square kilometres since 1982.
Part 12 of 12
American cheese is meanwhile getting cheaper, not scarcer: down 4.2% on a year earlier in July, while all food was up 3.0%.
7 sources
France bends the rules that define comte and beaufort, because the grass is gone
- 1France to relax cheese production rules after drought takes toll on grazing land
- 2How food companies can prepare for the next drought
- 3Dairy Market News Weekly Report, Volume 93
- 6Divergent vegetation recovery shaped by drought, heat and compound extremes
- 7NASA's ECOSTRESS satellite reveals widespread midday depression in ecosystem evapotranspiration
- 8America's Protein Obsession Reaches the Farm Gate
- 28El Nino and its effects on food supply chains
The full story
France bends the rules that define comte and beaufort, because the grass is gone
France's farm ministry gave makers of comte, beaufort and abondance a temporary break from the grazing rules their protected label requires.
They may now supplement their cows' diets with fodder and grain brought in from outside their own protected area, which the label normally forbids.
Comte is France's top-selling traditional cheese, with more than 62,000 tonnes made last year from raw milk in the Jura mountains.
Drought covered 95% of mainland France in July, and grass on permanent pasture was growing a third below its 1989-2018 average on 10 August.
INAO, the agency that writes and polices the labels, called the drought historic and is preparing the same relief for reblochon, cantal and two blue cheeses.
About 70% of the makers of salers, another protected cheese, stopped production this summer rather than break the rule.
One Normandy dairy is turning out 400 to 450 neufchatel cheeses a day instead of the usual 600 to 700, because the cows give less milk.
It is not only cheese: French potato growers expect a 23% smaller crop after five heatwaves, and the grape harvest has started early.
No European food crop escaped this drought, and Rabobank puts global farm productivity 21% below where it would be without climate change.
Forecasters say El Nino is strengthening, and that Pacific warming is part of what made this European drought one of the worst in living memory.
Satellites show heat and drought push plants to peak their water use up to two hours earlier in the day.
American cheese is meanwhile getting cheaper, not scarcer: down 4.2% on a year earlier in July, while all food was up 3.0%.
Why it matters. The test is whether the waivers stop at this summer: the agency has more cheeses queued, and roquefort's sheep graziers have already asked.
Crop tour puts US corn under USDA
Swipe up for the story ↑Scroll down for the story ↓
The Pro Farmer tour forecast 15.344 billion bushels of US corn, below the USDA's own estimate of 16.013 billion.
The USDA's 12 August report also cut Michigan's yield to 174 bushels an acre and Wisconsin's to 184.
Why it matters
Scouts found strong crops in eastern Iowa but drought damage west of them, and Indiana took 7 to 17 inches of rain.
Nobody knows yet
How much US corn there actually is.
Six senators have asked USDA to explain a large error in its own export figures and what staff losses did to its data.
6 sources
Crop tour puts US corn under USDA
- 103 Big Things Today, Aug. 24, 2026
- 11Strong Iowa, Minnesota Crops Unlikely to Offset U.S. Corn Belt Woes, Tour Finds
- 12Michigan Corn Crop Advances Ahead of Average as USDA Cuts Yield Forecast
- 13What's Going on With Wisconsin Corn?
- 14What Is Going on With Indiana Crops?
- 25Senate Democrats question USDA about data errors, staff losses
The full story
Crop tour puts US corn under USDA
The Pro Farmer tour forecast 15.344 billion bushels of US corn, below the USDA's own estimate of 16.013 billion.
Why it matters. Scouts found strong crops in eastern Iowa but drought damage west of them, and Indiana took 7 to 17 inches of rain.
EPA weighs 34 refinery waivers
Swipe up for the story ↑Scroll down for the story ↓
The EPA is reviewing 34 small-refinery exemptions from the biofuel blending mandate, which could free 1.2 to 1.8 billion compliance credits.
The American Soybean Association says that would erase about 500 million gallons of biodiesel demand.
Why it matters
A mandate with a hardship clause is only as firm as the hardship clause, which is the same shape as the cheese waiver.
Who gains
Small oil refiners
If the EPA grants the 34 waivers, they avoid buying up to 1.8 billion biofuel compliance credits.
Who pays
US soybean and corn growers
They planted with fertiliser and fuel priced up by the Iran war, and now face waivers cutting biofuel demand.
The full story
EPA weighs 34 refinery waivers
The EPA is reviewing 34 small-refinery exemptions from the biofuel blending mandate, which could free 1.2 to 1.8 billion compliance credits.
Why it matters. A mandate with a hardship clause is only as firm as the hardship clause, which is the same shape as the cheese waiver.
Black Sea attacks squeeze wheat
Swipe up for the story ↑Scroll down for the story ↓
Attacks on ports and vessels have shut terminals and cancelled cargoes in peak export season, pushing Chicago wheat up more than 17% since early July.
Australian wheat is quoted at $315 to $320 a tonne into Asia.
Why it matters
Egypt and Indonesia lean on Black Sea wheat for much of their second-half supply and must now buy dearer grain.
1 source
Black Sea attacks squeeze wheat
The full story
Black Sea attacks squeeze wheat
Attacks on ports and vessels have shut terminals and cancelled cargoes in peak export season, pushing Chicago wheat up more than 17% since early July.
Why it matters. Egypt and Indonesia lean on Black Sea wheat for much of their second-half supply and must now buy dearer grain.
Sulfur past $1,000 lifts fertiliser
Swipe up for the story ↑Scroll down for the story ↓
Sulfur has gone from under $100 a tonne in 2024 to over $1,000 now, dragging phosphate fertiliser up with it.
Making a tonne of DAP takes about 0.4 tonnes of sulfur, most of it a by-product of oil and gas.
Why it matters
Farmers buy fertiliser months before they plant, so the 2027 crop's costs are being set now.
The full story
Sulfur past $1,000 lifts fertiliser
Sulfur has gone from under $100 a tonne in 2024 to over $1,000 now, dragging phosphate fertiliser up with it.
Why it matters. Farmers buy fertiliser months before they plant, so the 2027 crop's costs are being set now.
Two egg outbreaks, 513 people
Swipe up for the story ↑Scroll down for the story ↓
A Belgian farm's eggs infected at least 306 people, the country's biggest salmonella cluster, and up to 2 million eggs were recalled.
In Britain, imported eggs eaten in cafes infected 207 people, killed one and put 34 in hospital.
Why it matters
Nothing in the reporting links the two, and the shared fact is simply that eggs cross borders before anyone counts them.
Nobody knows yet
Whether the Belgian and British egg outbreaks share a source.
Both involve eggs and one involved imports, but neither food agency has stated any link.
2 sources
Two egg outbreaks, 513 people
The full story
Two egg outbreaks, 513 people
A Belgian farm's eggs infected at least 306 people, the country's biggest salmonella cluster, and up to 2 million eggs were recalled.
Why it matters. Nothing in the reporting links the two, and the shared fact is simply that eggs cross borders before anyone counts them.
Michigan's cherry capital is failing
Swipe up for the story ↑Scroll down for the story ↓
Late frosts, brown rot after heavy rain, and an invasive fruit fly have hit northern Michigan's cherry growers, and some will not harvest at all this year.
Why it matters
An economist at Michigan State says the outlook is worse than the numbers show.
1 source
Michigan's cherry capital is failing
The full story
Michigan's cherry capital is failing
Late frosts, brown rot after heavy rain, and an invasive fruit fly have hit northern Michigan's cherry growers, and some will not harvest at all this year.
Why it matters. An economist at Michigan State says the outlook is worse than the numbers show.
Pennsylvania opens $10m in freeze grants
Swipe up for the story ↑Scroll down for the story ↓
Pennsylvania will open applications for $10 million of state aid to fruit farmers hit by an April freeze that cost the state $150 to $200 million.
One orchard cut its seasonal worker visas from 15 to four.
Why it matters
The money arrives four months after the frost, and the crop it was meant to save is about a quarter of normal.
1 source
Pennsylvania opens $10m in freeze grants
The full story
Pennsylvania opens $10m in freeze grants
Pennsylvania will open applications for $10 million of state aid to fruit farmers hit by an April freeze that cost the state $150 to $200 million.
Why it matters. The money arrives four months after the frost, and the crop it was meant to save is about a quarter of normal.
USDA puts $95m into school food
Swipe up for the story ↑Scroll down for the story ↓
USDA announced up to $70 million for school kitchen equipment and up to $25 million more in Farm to School grants for this financial year.
Why it matters
It is aimed at buying more American-grown food for school meals, which makes schools a guaranteed market for nearby farms.
1 source
USDA puts $95m into school food
The full story
USDA puts $95m into school food
USDA announced up to $70 million for school kitchen equipment and up to $25 million more in Farm to School grants for this financial year.
Why it matters. It is aimed at buying more American-grown food for school meals, which makes schools a guaranteed market for nearby farms.
Longer season, same spring frost
Swipe up for the story ↑Scroll down for the story ↓
A study of southern Sweden, Denmark and the Baltics projects the growing season starting earlier while the last spring frost barely moves.
The result is more frost days at the crop's most sensitive stage.
Why it matters
Warming's one advertised gift to northern farming can only be collected by planting into a risk that did not shrink.
1 source
Longer season, same spring frost
The full story
Longer season, same spring frost
A study of southern Sweden, Denmark and the Baltics projects the growing season starting earlier while the last spring frost barely moves.
Why it matters. Warming's one advertised gift to northern farming can only be collected by planting into a risk that did not shrink.
That's the whole Food day.
10 stories, 31 sources.