Day Lila

Thursday, 27 August 2026

27 Aug · Food · In brief

Food · Thursday, 27 August 2026

Food, in brief

10 stories · 31 sources

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What is moving · 1 of 4

Pasture failure

High ↑

Grass growth is a third under its long-run average, and Kansas drought deepened again last week under triple-digit heat. [1][24]

What is moving · 2 of 4

Label credibility

Building ↑

Seven protected cheeses now have a waiver or have asked for one, and roquefort's sheep graziers are next in the queue. [1]

What is moving · 3 of 4

Dairy demand shifting

Building ↑

Buyers want protein: whey is at a record world price and America is short of cottage cheese, while ice-cream sales fall. [9]

What is moving · 4 of 4

Adaptation effort

Easing ↑

Shropshire breeders are crossing wild lettuce relatives for heat tolerance, and a Gloucestershire farm has switched to flood-tolerant grass. [5][4]

France bends the rules that define comte and beaufort, because the grass is gone

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France's farm ministry gave makers of comte, beaufort and abondance a temporary break from the grazing rules their protected label requires. [1]

up from 3.66% in 2010, because buyers pay for solids, not volume [8]

Who is involved

Who is involved

Why it matters

The test is whether the waivers stop at this summer: the agency has more cheeses queued, and roquefort's sheep graziers have already asked. [1]

How it works

A promise is only worth what it costs to keep

How it works

A rule everyone would follow anyway proves nothing, so the only year it means something is the year keeping it hurts.

How it works · step 1 of 5

A label promises a way of making, not a taste

How it works · step 2 of 5

The promise is worth something because it cannot be bent

How it works · step 3 of 5

A bad year makes keeping it expensive

How it works · step 4 of 5

The rule is relaxed so the makers survive

How it works · step 5 of 5

The promise is now known to be bendable

The twist

A rule only proves something in the years obeying it hurts, and that is exactly the year it gets suspended.

The catch

Bending a rule can also be the honest thing: a promise kept until every maker is gone protects a name nobody makes any more.

The whole

Everyone here is acting reasonably: the farmer with no grass, the minister who cannot watch herds sold, the agency that must keep the name meaning something.

The whole

The guarantee still gets spent, and no one seat, ours included, can see how much.

What's really going on

France is protecting its cheesemakers by relaxing the definition of the cheese, which moves the cost off farmers now and onto the label's meaning later.

Why it works on people

The relief is announced as a technical, temporary adjustment, and that framing is what makes a change to a permanent guarantee sound like paperwork.

Who gains

They keep producing and selling under the protected name while feeding bought-in grain. [1]

Who gains

A rule that kept outside fodder out of three protected areas has been lifted at once. [1]

Who pays

About 70% paused production rather than break the rule, and had no waiver while they did it. [1]

Who pays

The premium buys a guarantee about method, and the method is suspended for this year's cheese. [1]

Nobody knows yet

Whether this summer's waivers end with this summer.

No source in the pool states an expiry date, and the agency is already preparing more of them. [1]

Nobody knows yet

What a relaxed rule does to what shoppers will pay for these cheeses.

No price data for the affected cheeses appears anywhere in the pool. [1]

Good news

France did not let the label quietly slip; it said out loud what was being suspended and why. A promise bent in public is one that can still be mended.

The short version

That's the story in short.

The whole story has 12 more parts.

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The whole story, in 12 parts ↓

Part 1 of 12 · Who else is involved

Part 2 of 12

They may now supplement their cows' diets with fodder and grain brought in from outside their own protected area, which the label normally forbids. [1]

Part 3 of 12

Comte is France's top-selling traditional cheese, with more than 62,000 tonnes made last year from raw milk in the Jura mountains. [1]

Part 4 of 12

Drought covered 95% of mainland France in July, and grass on permanent pasture was growing a third below its 1989-2018 average on 10 August. [1]

Part 5 of 12

INAO, the agency that writes and polices the labels, called the drought historic and is preparing the same relief for reblochon, cantal and two blue cheeses. [1]

Part 6 of 12

About 70% of the makers of salers, another protected cheese, stopped production this summer rather than break the rule. [1]

Part 7 of 12

One Normandy dairy is turning out 400 to 450 neufchatel cheeses a day instead of the usual 600 to 700, because the cows give less milk. [1]

Part 8 of 12

It is not only cheese: French potato growers expect a 23% smaller crop after five heatwaves, and the grape harvest has started early. [1]

Part 9 of 12

No European food crop escaped this drought, and Rabobank puts global farm productivity 21% below where it would be without climate change. [2]

Part 10 of 12

Forecasters say El Nino is strengthening, and that Pacific warming is part of what made this European drought one of the worst in living memory. [2][28]

Part 11 of 12

Satellites show heat and drought push plants to peak their water use up to two hours earlier in the day. [7]

Part 11 of 12

A second study puts the spread of combined drought-and-heat zones at an extra 10 million square kilometres since 1982. [6]

Part 12 of 12

American cheese is meanwhile getting cheaper, not scarcer: down 4.2% on a year earlier in July, while all food was up 3.0%. [3]

Crop tour puts US corn under USDA

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The Pro Farmer tour forecast 15.344 billion bushels of US corn, below the USDA's own estimate of 16.013 billion. [10]

The USDA's 12 August report also cut Michigan's yield to 174 bushels an acre and Wisconsin's to 184. [12][13]

Why it matters

Scouts found strong crops in eastern Iowa but drought damage west of them, and Indiana took 7 to 17 inches of rain. [11][14]

Nobody knows yet

How much US corn there actually is.

Six senators have asked USDA to explain a large error in its own export figures and what staff losses did to its data. [25]

EPA weighs 34 refinery waivers

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The EPA is reviewing 34 small-refinery exemptions from the biofuel blending mandate, which could free 1.2 to 1.8 billion compliance credits. [15]

The American Soybean Association says that would erase about 500 million gallons of biodiesel demand. [15]

Why it matters

A mandate with a hardship clause is only as firm as the hardship clause, which is the same shape as the cheese waiver. [15]

Who gains

If the EPA grants the 34 waivers, they avoid buying up to 1.8 billion biofuel compliance credits. [15]

Who pays

They planted with fertiliser and fuel priced up by the Iran war, and now face waivers cutting biofuel demand. [11][15][29]

Black Sea attacks squeeze wheat

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Attacks on ports and vessels have shut terminals and cancelled cargoes in peak export season, pushing Chicago wheat up more than 17% since early July. [16]

Australian wheat is quoted at $315 to $320 a tonne into Asia. [16]

Why it matters

Egypt and Indonesia lean on Black Sea wheat for much of their second-half supply and must now buy dearer grain. [16]

Sulfur past $1,000 lifts fertiliser

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Sulfur has gone from under $100 a tonne in 2024 to over $1,000 now, dragging phosphate fertiliser up with it. [17]

Making a tonne of DAP takes about 0.4 tonnes of sulfur, most of it a by-product of oil and gas. [17]

Why it matters

Farmers buy fertiliser months before they plant, so the 2027 crop's costs are being set now. [17]

Two egg outbreaks, 513 people

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A Belgian farm's eggs infected at least 306 people, the country's biggest salmonella cluster, and up to 2 million eggs were recalled. [18]

In Britain, imported eggs eaten in cafes infected 207 people, killed one and put 34 in hospital. [19]

Why it matters

Nothing in the reporting links the two, and the shared fact is simply that eggs cross borders before anyone counts them. [19]

Nobody knows yet

Whether the Belgian and British egg outbreaks share a source.

Both involve eggs and one involved imports, but neither food agency has stated any link. [18][19]

Michigan's cherry capital is failing

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Late frosts, brown rot after heavy rain, and an invasive fruit fly have hit northern Michigan's cherry growers, and some will not harvest at all this year. [20]

Why it matters

An economist at Michigan State says the outlook is worse than the numbers show. [20]

Pennsylvania opens $10m in freeze grants

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Pennsylvania will open applications for $10 million of state aid to fruit farmers hit by an April freeze that cost the state $150 to $200 million. [21]

One orchard cut its seasonal worker visas from 15 to four. [21]

Why it matters

The money arrives four months after the frost, and the crop it was meant to save is about a quarter of normal. [21]

USDA puts $95m into school food

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USDA announced up to $70 million for school kitchen equipment and up to $25 million more in Farm to School grants for this financial year. [22]

Why it matters

It is aimed at buying more American-grown food for school meals, which makes schools a guaranteed market for nearby farms. [22]

Longer season, same spring frost

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A study of southern Sweden, Denmark and the Baltics projects the growing season starting earlier while the last spring frost barely moves. [23]

The result is more frost days at the crop's most sensitive stage. [23]

Why it matters

Warming's one advertised gift to northern farming can only be collected by planting into a risk that did not shrink. [23]

That's the whole Food day.

10 stories, 31 sources.