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Sunday, 11 October 2026

11 Oct · Food · In brief

Food · Sunday, 11 October 2026

Food, in brief

14 stories · 18 sources

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What is moving · 1 of 3

Weather farmers cannot plan for

High ↑

In Nyeri, in Kenya's highlands, a psychologist says about a third of his patients are farmers hit by repeated losses. [13] In Ethiopia, El Nino left some areas with their driest June and July on record. [9] Analysts at ING, a Dutch bank, say rain, drought and disease are a lasting threat to cocoa farms in West Africa. [6]

What is moving · 2 of 3

Big owners taking more land

Building ↑

A South African billionaire has bought more than 2,700 acres of Somerset countryside around his hotel. [10] In Italy, about 86% of public money for solar panels over crops went to large projects. [12] Many of Alaska's largest fishing boats are owned by companies near Seattle. [1]

What is moving · 3 of 3

Waters closed to fishing

Building ↑

The Yukon River has been closed to Chinook fishing since 2024. [1] Virginia shut part of the Little Wicomico River to oyster harvesting eight days into its season. [8] In Papua New Guinea, village elders close their own reef every few years so the fish can recover. [17]

Alaska's pollock trawlers catch about 300,000 salmon a year while Yukon villages may not fish for Chinook, and trawling becomes an election fight

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Alaska pollock is the second-largest fishery on Earth, and in the US it goes into McDonald's Filet-O-Fish, fish sticks and imitation crab. [1]

18,000 Chinook and 288,000 others, a ten-year average [1]

many of the largest boats are owned by companies near Seattle, outside Alaska [1]

Who is involved

Who is involved

Why it matters

Watch who wins the governor's race on 3 November, because the winner nominates five of the seven appointed members of the council that sets the trawlers' salmon cap. [1][4]

What's really going on

Scientists blame warmer sea water most for the loss of western Alaska's salmon, and no rule can change the sea.

What's really going on

A fishing council can cap the salmon that pollock trawlers catch, and Alaska's next governor will nominate five of that council's seven appointed members, so the fight has moved to the nets and to the 3 November vote. [1][4]

Why it works on people

The story is told through one Native family with its boat tied up and one trawler captain at sea, which makes a sea-wide change in water temperature look like a contest between two boats.

Who gains

The recommended chum cap, which critics call too high, lets the fleet keep fishing, and much of the money from the catch leaves Alaska. [1]

Who gains

The issue pulls Democrats, Republicans, sport fishers and Native villages to the same side, an unusual mix of voters. [2]

Who pays

They have been barred from Chinook fishing since 2024, and villages like Rampart have no grocery store to replace the fish. [1]

Nobody knows yet

How much of the salmon decline the trawl nets cause.

Scientists name warmer water as the main cause, and none of our sources puts a number on the share that bycatch adds. [1][2]

Nobody knows yet

Whether the recommended cap of 45,000 western Alaska chum becomes a rule, and when.

The council recommended it in February, and our sources do not say when or whether it takes effect. [1]

Nobody knows yet

Whether the next governor will change who sits on the council.

Several candidates promised to, and the election is on 3 November. [1][4]

The short version

That's the story in short.

The whole story has 12 more parts.

or swipe up for the next storyor scroll on for the next story ↓

The whole story, in 12 parts ↓

Part 1 of 12 · Who else is involved

Part 1 of 12 · Who else is involved

Part 2 of 12

The nets catch other sea life too.

Part 2 of 12

Over the last ten years, pollock trawlers in the Bering Sea, between Alaska and Russia, caught about 18,000 Chinook and 288,000 other salmon a year, nearly all of them chum. [1][2]

Part 3 of 12

Salmon runs in western Alaska have collapsed.

Part 3 of 12

In 2024 Alaska and Canada banned Chinook fishing on the Yukon River for seven years, one full salmon life cycle. [1]

Part 4 of 12

In Rampart, a Native village on the Yukon with no grocery store, families who once filled smokehouses with salmon left their boats tied up this summer. [1]

Part 5 of 12

Scientists say warmer water and changing ocean conditions, not trawl nets, are the main cause of the decline. [1][2]

Part 5 of 12

Critics answer that bycatch is one of the few causes managers can control. [1]

Part 6 of 12

Most chum caught by the trawlers come from other rivers, as far away as Russia and Japan.

Part 6 of 12

About 17% are from western Alaska, but even 9% in 2021 meant more than 51,000 fish. [1]

Part 7 of 12

In February the North Pacific Fishery Management Council, which writes many of the rules for the Bering Sea fleet, recommended a cap of 45,000 western Alaska chum.

Part 7 of 12

Critics said it was too high. [1]

Part 8 of 12

The industry says every salmon is counted by observers or cameras, and every boat carries a device that lets salmon swim out of the net. [1][2]

Part 8 of 12

One captain said steering away from salmon on one trip burned nearly 3,000 gallons of fuel. [1]

Part 9 of 12

Halibut and crab fishers face shrinking limits too, while Alaska's trawlers threw back about 96 million pounds of unwanted catch in 2025. [1][2]

Part 10 of 12

Trawling is now an election issue.

Part 10 of 12

At least 10 of the 19 first candidates for governor criticised it, and the governor nominates five of the council's seven appointed voting members. [1][2]

Part 11 of 12

In the US Senate race, Democrat Mary Peltola wants an end to large factory trawlers, and Republican Senator Dan Sullivan has a bill to cut bycatch. [1]

Part 11 of 12

In the House race, Bill Hill, an independent and a Bristol Bay salmon fisherman, is challenging Republican Nick Begich. [4]

Part 12 of 12

Trawl nets that touch the seabed also stir up carbon stored in the mud.

Part 12 of 12

A 2024 study estimated the extra carbon dioxide could be up to twice what the world's fishing fleets burn in fuel. [3]

The Indus swallows farmland near Layyah

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The Indus, Pakistan's biggest river, destroyed Basti Kanjal, a village of more than 500 houses near the city of Layyah, in this year's floods. [11]

Since June about 5,000 acres of farmland have been lost, and news reports put the number of people forced from home at 100,000. [11]

A professor at Quaid-i-Azam University, writing in Dawn, says 38 years of satellite pictures show the river being pushed east by a canal, a barrage and earth flood banks. [11]

A barrage is a low dam that turns river water into canals.

Why it matters

The river is now 200 metres from its old channel by Layyah, and the city's flood bank ends 3.5km before the river's new edge. [11]

Why it matters

If it keeps moving, it could flow around Taunsa Barrage, whose canals water millions of acres of farms. [11]

Who pays

About 5,000 acres of farmland have been lost since June and about 100,000 people forced from home. [11]

Nobody knows yet

Whether the Indus will break through near Layyah.

The river is 200 metres from its old channel there, and the city's flood bank stops 3.5km short; our source reports no plan to close the gap. [11]

Ethiopia plants 47 billion trees on its farmland

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Ethiopians have planted more than 47 billion tree seedlings in seven years, aiming for 50 billion by 2030. [9]

Over the last century most of the country's forests were cut for farms, grazing and fuel, so rain now washes the topsoil away. [9]

That damage costs Ethiopia an estimated $4.3 billion a year in smaller harvests and lost income. [9]

In August, 26.6 million people planted 800 million seedlings in one day, Ethiopia's government says. [9]

Why it matters

A 2026 study of 44,500 seedlings in southern Ethiopia found about 80% had survived. [9]

Why it matters

Barley grown by one Ethiopian farmer, Niku Argane, before and after he planted grass and trees around his fields.

One farmer's barley rose from about 1,800 to 3,200 pounds an acre after he planted trees and grass. [9]

Why it matters

An Ethiopian restoration ecologist says the campaign counts trees planted more than trees kept alive; a government adviser disputes that. [9]

How it works

Alaska cannot cool the sea, so it argues over the nets

How it works

Warm water did most of the damage to Alaska's salmon, but nobody can vote on the sea, so the fight goes to the trawl nets a rule can limit.

How it works · step 1 of 5

Salmon runs in western Alaska collapse

How it works · step 2 of 5

Scientists blame warmer sea water most

How it works · step 3 of 5

Nobody in Alaska can cool the Bering Sea

How it works · step 4 of 5

The salmon caught in trawl nets can be capped by a rule

How it works · step 5 of 5

So votes, rules and anger gather around the nets

The twist

Nobody can make the Bering Sea colder. A fishing council can limit how many salmon the trawlers catch, so that is where the fight goes.

The picture

  • From western Alaska17%
  • From other rivers83%

Where the chum salmon caught by pollock trawlers come from, as a recent average. The other rivers stretch as far as Russia and Japan.

Seen the same day

Kenya's coffee and goat farmers

Nobody can make the rain in Nyeri reliable, so the psychologist there asks for irrigation and mental-health help, the parts of the loss people can change.

Seen the same day

Ethiopia's 47 billion trees

Ethiopians cannot stop El Nino's dry spells, so they plant trees and grass to keep their soil from washing away.

Seen the same day

Barry Callebaut's move into fillings

No company can fix the weather on West African cocoa farms, so Barry Callebaut sells fillings and other makers plan to use less cocoa.

The catch

Cutting the smaller cause still matters when only a few fish are left.

The catch

But if the sea keeps warming, a lower salmon cap on its own may not bring the runs back.

The whole

The family on the Yukon, the captain on the trawler and the shopper buying fish sticks all depend on the same warming sea.

The whole

Each of them sees one piece of it: an empty river net, a fuel bill or a price on a box.

The whole

None of them can see how much the sea itself has changed.

Nobody knows yet

How many of Ethiopia's 47 billion seedlings are still alive.

One study found about 80% of 44,500 seedlings survived in the south, but no national count of surviving trees is given. [9]

Good news

On a hillside in central Ethiopia, Niku Argane planted grass and trees around his fields, and his barley harvest rose from about 1,800 pounds an acre to about 3,200. A study of 44,500 seedlings planted in southern Ethiopia in 2023 found about 80% still alive.

Barry Callebaut's new plan fails to lift its shares

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Barry Callebaut, the world's biggest supplier of cocoa and chocolate to food companies, said last month it would also sell fillings and other ingredients. [5]

Its share price fell further, to 1,035 Swiss francs, after a slide that began in February. [5]

Cocoa prices are below their record of early 2025 but jumped in late August and again in early October. [6]

Ghana and Ivory Coast grow over half the world's cocoa, and ING says climate damage there is lasting. [6]

Why it matters

Big chocolate brands raised prices in 2024 and 2025, and in 2026 they reached the limit of what shoppers would pay, ING says. [6]

Why it matters

It says cheaper chocolate could use more cocoa substitutes, while expensive brands keep real cocoa. [6]

How it works

Barry Callebaut's move into fillings

No company can fix the weather on West African cocoa farms, so Barry Callebaut sells fillings and other makers plan to use less cocoa.

The idea, in story 3: Alaska cannot cool the sea, so it argues over the nets →

Who pays

The share price has fallen since February, to 1,035 Swiss francs, and the new plan did not stop it. [5]

US farmers read the fine print of a China deal

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The American Farm Bureau Federation, the biggest US farmers' group, published on 8 October what is known about the US-China '30-for-30' trade framework. [7]

China's commerce ministry says about 90% of the farm goods it covers will lose the extra import taxes added during the trade fight. [7]

It is not a promise to buy anything, and it does not name whole soybeans. [7]

China had still booked 11.1 million tonnes of US soybeans by 1 October, against none a year earlier. [7]

Why it matters

US corn export sales are running 34% behind last year, a StoneX economist says. [7]

Why it matters

Even after the cut, Australian and New Zealand farm goods could still pay less tax in China, because those countries have free-trade deals with it. [7]

Who gains

If the framework works as China describes, about 90% of covered farm goods lose the extra taxes added during the trade fight. [7]

Nobody knows yet

Whether the US-China trade framework will lower the taxes on US farm goods, and how soon.

The size of the cuts and the start date have not been published, and whole soybeans are not named. [7]

Kenyan farmers' losses turn into an illness

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Doctors in Nyeri, in Kenya's central highlands, say unreliable rain is damaging farmers' mental health. [13]

Josephine Kihu has grown coffee for 30 years and now pays someone to water her trees because the rain is too light. [13]

Charles Ndung'u lost 40 goats in three months to a dry spell and a livestock disease. [13]

Kahindo Gacago, a psychologist at Outspan Hospital, says about a third of his patients are farmers hit by repeated losses. [13]

Why it matters

Ndung'u sells goats to pay his children's school fees, so a dead herd also means missed schooling. [13]

Why it matters

Gacago wants farmer support schemes to include mental health and better access to irrigation. [13]

How it works

Kenya's coffee and goat farmers

Nobody can make the rain in Nyeri reliable, so the psychologist there asks for irrigation and mental-health help, the parts of the loss people can change.

The idea, in story 3: Alaska cannot cool the sea, so it argues over the nets →

Who pays

One farmer lost 40 goats in three months, and the money from goats pays school fees. [13]

Virginia shuts an oyster river over Salmonella

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Virginia closed part of the Little Wicomico River to oyster and clam harvesting on 9 October. [8]

Health officials linked shellfish from there to an outbreak of Salmonella, a food-poisoning germ, that has made at least five people ill in Pennsylvania. [8]

The state's oyster season had opened only eight days earlier, and the closure runs until 7 November. [8] A second closure covers part of Lower Machodoc Creek until 29 October. [8]

Why it matters

Virginia's public oyster grounds produce about 250,000 bushels a year, and the state spends $4 million to $10 million a year keeping those reefs alive. [8]

Why it matters

Crabs and fish can still be caught in the closed water while the shellfish are tested. [8]

Who pays

Part of the Little Wicomico River is closed until 7 November, eight days into the season. [8]

Nobody knows yet

Where the Salmonella in Virginia's shellfish came from.

Officials linked the illnesses to oysters from the Little Wicomico River and are still testing the shellfish. [8]

Solar panels and peppers share fields in Spain

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In Murcia, in south-east Spain, researchers grow peppers, grapes and dragon fruit under solar panels, which is called agrivoltaics. [12]

They found water-stressed peppers grew better under the panels than well-watered ones. [12] In southern Italy, Amazon and Apple buy power from such projects totalling more than 150 megawatts. [12]

France requires these farms to keep at least 90% of normal crop yields, and Italy requires 70% of the land to stay in farming. [12]

Why it matters

  • Large projects86%
  • Everything else14%
Where Italy's public money for solar panels over crops went, by a 2025 count of about 775 million euros.

About 86% of Italy's 775 million euros of public money for these projects went to large ones, a 2025 review found. [12]

Why it matters

Fabrizio Garbarino, who leads an Italian farmers' union, says data-centre developers are chasing farmers for their land. [12]

Who gains

About 86% of the country's public money for solar panels over crops went to large projects. [12]

Good news

In Murcia, in south-east Spain, peppers short of water grew better under solar panels than peppers given plenty of water.

A billionaire buys up a corner of Somerset

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Koos Bekker, a South African billionaire who chairs the tech company Naspers, has bought more than 2,700 acres around Bruton and Castle Cary in Somerset, England, the Guardian found. [10]

His company runs the Newt, an 800-pound-a-night hotel with its own farms, and has bought pubs, a deli and farmhouses nearby. [10]

Villagers have started a petition against pesticide spraying on its farmland. [10] Farmers suspect its new boreholes have dried up stretches of the River Brue. [10]

Why it matters

Land next to one village used to be an organic farm and no longer is, a neighbour says. [10]

Why it matters

The Newt says it employs more than 650 people who are from or live in the area. [10]

Who gains

It keeps buying farmland, pubs and shops around Bruton and now holds more than 2,700 acres. [10]

Nobody knows yet

Whether the Newt's new boreholes dried up the River Brue.

Farmers suspect it, and a neighbour is negotiating with the hotel through the Environment Agency; no finding has been published. [10]

Europe's forest law is weeks away

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From 30 December, large companies selling in the EU must comply with the EU Deforestation Regulation, a law meant to keep goods from newly cleared forest off its market. [14]

Smaller firms follow on 30 June 2027, after two earlier delays. [14]

Global Witness, a campaign group, says Mondelez, the maker of Toblerone, lobbied the US government to weaken it; Mondelez says it supports the law's aims. [14]

The US ambassador to the EU calls it textbook overregulation. [14]

Why it matters

Chocolate makers Barry Callebaut and Ferrero back the law. [14]

Why it matters

A lawyer at the firm Browne Jacobson says a third delay cannot be ruled out, but a December start is more likely. [14]

Nobody knows yet

Whether Europe's forest law starts on 30 December.

It has been delayed twice, and a lawyer says a third delay cannot be ruled out. [14]

Footballers pick apples in Japan's apple city

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Two players from Blancdieu Hirosaki FC, a fifth-tier football club, work in apple orchards between matches and training. [15] Hirosaki, in northern Japan, grows more apples than any other Japanese city. [15]

Apple businesses in Hirosaki, Japan's biggest apple-growing city, by the national farm census.

Its apple businesses fell from 4,045 in 2020 to 3,464 in 2025, and the average farm worker is in their sixties. [15]

Since 2025 the city has run seminars to bring people from sports clubs and other groups into farming. [15]

Why it matters

Midfielder Shota Shimogami, 25, works about four hours on weekday afternoons after practice. [15] Orchard owners also get to show their apples to the club's fans. [15]

Some reefs hold more fish than expected

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Scientists who checked nearly 1,700 coral reefs found more than a dozen with far more fish than expected, which they call bright spots. [17]

One is off Muluk, a village in Papua New Guinea, where elders close part of the reef to fishing every few years. [17]

Their new review of more than 70 studies finds three things in common: a local fix, people able to adapt, and the right to manage their own waters. [17]

Why it matters

Papua New Guinea's constitution gives coastal villages the right to manage their sea, so Muluk can keep outside fishers away. [17]

Why it matters

On the Bering Sea, the rules for the trawlers are set by a council whose members are appointed. [1]

Good news

Off Muluk, a village in Papua New Guinea, elders close part of their reef to fishing every few years, and the reef holds far more fish than scientists expected.

Detroit's food scraps go back to a farm

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Scrap Soils, a small Detroit company, collects food scraps from more than 70 homes and businesses each week and takes them to Sanctuary Farms to be made into compost. [18]

Pickup for a home starts at $15 a month. [18] Food left to rot in a landfill gives off methane, a gas that warms the planet quickly. [18]

Detroit opened its first city drop-off site for food scraps in the past year, and hundreds of residents signed up. [18]

Why it matters

A 2023 count found 400 city-backed food-scrap programmes in the US, far fewer than ordinary rubbish services. [18]

Why it matters

Detroit plans more drop-off bins as part of a plan to keep 15% of its waste out of landfill. [18]

Good news

Detroit opened its first city drop-off site for food scraps in the past year, and hundreds of residents signed up to bring their buckets.

Smoked fish recalled in six US states

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Krasnyi Oktyabr, a Brooklyn wholesaler, is recalling packs of Starfish Seafood Trio, cold-smoked salmon, halibut and trout made in Latvia. [16]

New York State's farm department found the fish may carry Listeria, a germ that can cause serious illness. [16]

The packs were sold in New York, Florida, Georgia, Massachusetts and North and South Carolina. [16] Nobody has reported being ill. [16]

Why it matters

Listeria can take up to 70 days to cause symptoms, and pregnant women, babies and older people are most at risk. [16]

That's the whole Food day.

14 stories, 18 sources.